Artist Riley Sheehey reimagined the Decatur House ball held in honor of Maria and Samuel’s wedding–one of many high society parties to celebrate the newlyweds. The French Empire style that filtered into upper class American fashion in the early nineteenth century is visible amongst the guests’ dress. Puffed sleeves, high waistlines, and loose floor-length skirts adorned the crème-de-la-crème of the Washingtonian women in attendance. This illustration was originally commissioned for “A First Daughter’s White House Wedding: Etiquette Wars and a Celebration at Stephen Decatur’s House” by Lauren McGwin in White House History Quarterly 54.

Date: Circa 1804-1805

This circa 1804-05 evening dress, owned by Baltimore socialite Elizabeth Patterson, who suffered an ill-fated marriage to the brother of Napoleon Bonaparte, represents the popular French Empire style that rippled through American fashion systems in the early nineteenth century. The Grecian-inspired loose drapery, puffed sleeves, low neckline, high waistline, and light-colored, very sheer fabric with delicate cotton embroidery replicated the French Empress Josephine’s famous style.

Date: 1821

Medium: silk, satin, and gauze

By the 1820s, the French Empire style was already changing. This circa 1821 English wedding dress is an example of an upper-class bride’s gown and is made of silk with silk gauze oversleeves. The style had changed since the height of its popularity in the early 1800s. This gown has a slightly lower waistline and there are more trimmings, like the silk flounces on the skirt hem and slashes on the bodice.

Date: June 1822

Creator: E. Vaile

Medium: Painting

Lafayette Square, the park bordering the White House, was much less developed in the early nineteenth century than it appears today. This 1822 illustration of Stephen Decatur’s house on Lafayette Square shows what wealthy, upper-crust Washingtonians would have seen when their carriages arrived at Maria and Samuel’s celebratory ball on the Saturday after the nuptials. The house, “fit for fine entertainments,” hosted the most important politicians, diplomats, military members, and elite members in D.C. for the event, but was only one of many balls initially planned for the celebration.

Date: 1820

Maria Monroe Gouverneur is captured in this relief. Her New York style wedding, planned by older sister Eliza Monroe Hay, was a private affair attended by only forty-two of their closest friends and family.