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Glamour and Innovation: Mary Matise

Mary Matise designed for Jimmae Manufacturing and designed a wide range of clothing from lavish eveningwear and resort wear to everyday basic dresses and suits for women. This exhibit was curated by Maegan Jenkins, the inaugural Digital Exhibits Intern and MA/MS dual degree student in Costume Studies and Library and Information Sciences at New York University.

Mary Matise

(November 1912 - May 3, 2002)

Mary Matise, the daughter of Italian immigrants, designed for Jimmae Manufacturing, a company that she ran with her younger brother Anthony in the heart of Manhattan’s garment district. Jimmae was a part of the New York Couture Business Council and operated out of a showroom at 530 7th Avenue. Matise designed a wide range of clothing from lavish eveningwear and resort wear to everyday basic dresses and suits for women. Her most famous garment is the Inauguration gown she designed for Rosalynn Carter.

Gallery

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    Rosalynn Carter’s Inaugural Gown, 1977

    First Lady Rosalynn Carter wore this gold embroidered sleeveless coat over a gold-trimmed blue chiffon gown designed by Mary Matise for Jimmae a total of three times. The third time she famously wore it for President Jimmy Carter’s Inaugural Ball in 1977, which created some controversy in the press. Media outlets criticized her for re-wearing this gown, stating that as first lady, she was missing an opportunity to showcase the American fashion industry and to exhibit to the world, the glamour of the White House. Modesty and resourcefulness were more in line with the Carters’ overarching beliefs, and instead Mrs. Carter’s inaugural gown became one of the first displays of sustainable fashion on a global scale.

    National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Gift of Rosalynn Carter

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    President and Mrs. Carter Dance at Inaugural Ball

    In this photograph taken on January 20, 1977, President Jimmy Carter and First Lady Rosalynn Carter dance among their guests at their inaugural ball. Visible is the intricate gold beadwork and weaving of Matise’s design at the neckline.

    Library of Congress

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  • The Carters Dance at Their Inaugural Ball, January 20, 1977

    The beautiful fluidity and movement of the blue chiffon skirt in Mary Matise’s design is on display here as President Jimmy Carter and First Lady Rosalynn Carter dance at their Inaugural Ball.

    Footage Farm

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    Cocktail Dress by Mary Matise for Jimmae 1956

    This cocktail dress designed by Mary Matise for Jimmae features a sweetheart neckline and cap sleeves. The skirt has a central panel of decorative gathering and large box pleats. This dress was a part of a collection of promotional photos by Joseph Bancroft in which Miss America contestants modeled their fabrics. The fabric sample attached at the top right is an Ottoman weave cotton in the color Everglaze.

    1972430_0232, Box 1, Folder 3, Joseph Bancroft & Sons Co. Miss America photographs, Audiovisual Collections and Digital Initiatives Department, Hagley Museum and Library

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    Orange Gold Metallic Gown, 1960s-1970s

    This glamourous evening dress featured hallmarks from the seventies like the bright orange color, gold detailing, and floor-length hem. The gown is lined with satin, has a netted/mesh shell (overlay), and a daring side slit.

    Cora Barrett, Dead Horse Vintage

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    Mary Matise Label

    Labels are a valuable part of the garment and contribute to the piece's authenticity, assuring buyers were getting a genuine piece from the designer.

    Cora Barrett, Dead Horse Vintage

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