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Glamour and Innovation: Nettie Rosenstein

Known for her exceptionally tailored designs and her masterful take on the “little black dress,” Nettie Rosenstein learned dressmaking skills at a young age. In 1916, Rosenstein created a dressmaking business out of her home in Harlem, and by the 1920s, she employed over fifty different dressmakers in a new location on East 56th Street and sold dresses wholesale under the Nettie Rosenstein label. This exhibit was curated by Maegan Jenkins, the inaugural Digital Exhibits Intern and MA/MS dual degree student in Costume Studies and Library and Information Sciences at New York University.

Nettie Rosenstein

(c. 1890 - March 13, 1980)

Known for her exceptionally tailored designs and her masterful take on the “little black dress,” Nettie Rosenstein learned dressmaking skills at an early age. Her sister Pauline operated Madame Pauline, a millinery business next to the family’s dry-goods store on 118th Street and Lenox Avenue in New York City, so Rosenstein’s first job was working as a custom dressmaker for her sister’s clients. In 1916, Rosenstein created a dressmaking business out of her home in Harlem, and by the 1920s, she employed over fifty different dressmakers in a new location on East 56th Street and sold dresses wholesale under the Nettie Rosenstein label. On a fateful day in 1950, a private client arrived at the showroom to look at a few dress designers. The private client was Mamie Eisenhower, who was shown around the store by Eva Rosencrans, Nettie’s sister-in-law and designer under the Nettie Rosenstein label. This led to a relationship with the two designers, and Mamie Eisenhower later asked them to design her famous pink inaugural gown, embedded with 2,000 rhinestones. After the first gown was such a success, they designed the second inaugural look, this one a yellow dress for the 1957 Inauguration.

Gallery

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    Mamie Eisenhower Official Portrait

    This official oil portrait, painted by artist Thomas Edgar Stevens, features First Lady Mamie Eisenhower in the Inaugural gown created by Nettie Rosenstein and Eva Rosencrans in 1953. This gown is made from blush pink silk and features more than 2,000 rhinestones that sparkle and capture the light.

    White House Collection/White House Historical Association

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  • “Belle of the Ball” Mamie Eisenhower

    Even in black and white, this video shows off the dazzling effect from the 2,000 rhinestones that adorned Mrs. Eisenhower’s dress. Also, notice the beautiful swing in the skirt!

    British Pathe

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    Wool Suit and Hat, 1940

    American socialite Babe Paley (Barbara Cushing) models a blue wool suit with a white ruffled collar. She is also sporting a green straw hat with blue flowers and a veil. This Nettie Rosenstein ensemble was featured in an advertisement for Vogue magazine in 1940.

    Toni Frissell/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

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    Red and Blue Silk Gowns, 1940s

    This red silk crepe dress and royal blue jersey dress are both Nettie Rosenstein creations. The models are wearing coordinating jewelry by Tiffany. This advertisement appeared in the November 1940 issue of Vogue.

    Horst P Horst/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

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    Sand-Colored Dress, 1940

    The sand-colored dress is made from silk crepe and features a high neck and a pointed basque bodice with seventeen buttons down the center front. The model is also wearing a matching halo hat made with fur.

    John Rawlings/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

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    Brown and White Dress, 1940

    The caption from this Vogue 1940 advertisement states, “Brown and white together for spring. Printed dress, long brown coat, both of crown tested rayon jersey. Nettie Rosenstein design; From Bonveil Teller; J, Magnin. Diamond jewellry from Frabert and Hoeffer – Maubussin.”

    Horst P Horst/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

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