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Something Old, Something New: Jessie Wilson

Something Old, Something New: Eight First Daughters’ Fashionable White House Weddings highlights the glamorous weddings of eight women who took their vows at the White House over two centuries and how their bridal fashion reflects both the taste of each era and their own personal styles. This exhibit was curated by Jillian Staricka, the 2023 Digital Exhibits Intern and MA student in Costume Studies at New York University.

Jessie Wilson

Married to Francis Sayre on November 25, 1913

Something Old, Something New: Jessie Wilson

This table details the known items of Jessie Wilson’s wedding ensemble. A wedding ensemble is comprised of all the garments and accessories worn by a bride on their wedding day. The wedding ensemble is part of the trousseau, a collection of garments, accessories, and personal items that a bride will take into their new marriage.

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On the afternoon of November 25, 1913, Jessie Wilson married Francis Bowes Sayre in the East Room of the White House. Jessie’s trousseau reflected American workmanship and the still-dominant Paris fashions, having garments made in both countries. Although the first family attempted to keep the details of her wedding gown a secret, the press, including the breaking news and fashion industry trade journal Women’s Wear Daily (WWD), leaked descriptions of it much to the dismay of the bride. Weeks before the day of the nuptials, WWD reported details about Jessie’s wedding gown that were unknown to even her closest friends. The rapid spread of information from newspapers all over the country contributed to the public’s thirst for access to the wedding. Jessie’s Baltimore-made gown was simple yet voguish, following her general style which was described as “modish but not extreme.” The double ring ceremony was held in the East Room, where the intricate floral decor and Art Nouveau motifs complemented the softness of Jessie’s bridesmaids’ dresses of rose-colored draped chiffon. Striking a balance between a more intimate family affair and appeasing elite members of society, Jessie and Francis held two simultaneous dinners that night: one in the Family Dining Room and one in the more public State Dining Room.

Gallery

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    Wedding Portrait of Jessie Woodrow Wilson Sayre

    Date: November 25, 1913

    Medium: Portrait photograph

    The white silk satin used to make Jessie’s bridal gown was woven at the Pelgram and Meyer silk mill in Paterson, New Jersey in keeping with the general sentiment of the Wilson administration to support American industry and a nod to their former home state where President Wilson served as governor. The skirt of the gown was narrow at the ankle but had slashes cut in the back, which were hidden by the court train, in order to make it easier for Jessie to walk down the aisle.

    Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library and Museum

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    Wilson-Sayre Wedding Party

    Date: December 6, 1913

    Creator: Edmonston

    Medium: Photograph

    The Wilson-Sayre wedding party pose for wedding photographs upstairs in the residence after the ceremony. The bridesmaids wore dresses of charmeuse, a smooth fabric with a satin weave, draped in chiffon from the shoulders over the bodice in varying shades of rose. The gowns were trimmed in silver lace which also adorned the caps with pointed edges turned up like crowns.

    Library of Congress

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    Wedding Portrait of Jessie Woodrow Wilson Sayre and Francis Bowes Sayre

    Date: November 25, 1913

    Medium: Portrait photograph

    Jessie and Francis Sayre pose for their official wedding portrait. Her white satin wedding gown featured a v-neckline embroidered with orange blossom patterns, orange blossoms draped in the folds around her waist, and expensive real point lace embellishments.

    Library of Congress

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    East Room Decorated for the Wilson-Sayre Wedding

    Date: Circa November 25, 1913

    Creator: Harris & Ewing

    Medium: Photograph

    The ceremony took place at an altar in the historic East Room under the “thousands of lights…mellowed by sparkle of the cut glass ornamentations of the chandeliers.” Palms, maidenhair ferns, and annunciation lilies set the room abloom and complemented Jessie’s bouquet.

    Library of Congress

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    Jessie Woodrow Wilson and Francis Bowes Sayre's Wedding Cake

    Date: Circa November 25, 1913

    Creator: Bain News Service

    Medium: Photograph

    The Wilson-Sayre wedding cake, decorated in the popular Art Nouveau style of the day–flowing, rhythmic lines, floral motifs, and a return to nature–was served in the private Family Dining Room to only twenty of the couple's closest friends and family as the dinner party continued in the State Dining Room for the remaining guests.

    Library of Congress

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    Jessie Wilson on her Wedding Day

    Date: November 25, 1913

    Medium: Newspaper

    Jessie’s veil was made of white tulle and attached to a cap of point lace that matched her gown. The detailed veil fell from the orange blossoms on the crown of her head almost to the end of the dress’s train.

    New York Times Archive

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